U.S. SolidMotorized Ball Valve- 1/2" Stainless Steel Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V AC/DC and 2 Wire Auto Return Setup

I needed to automate the flush valve our our sediment filter, to open for one minute once a week. Since there was a sprinkler timer nearby I needed a value that was energized to open and automatically closes when deenergized. And because of the large amount of sediment in the flush water I needed a ball valve instead of a solenoid valve. So this particular valve is perfect.I opens quickly when actuated from a standard sprinkler controller, and closes reliably when the sprinkler controller removes power. It has standard 1/2" pipe threads and installs easily.It's worth noting that this valve does not have a way to manually activate it, but I can use the manual mode of the sprinkler controller for that.It's only been installed a few weeks, but so far it's running perfectly.

Muy bue o y practico artículo y muy buena calidad

I installed this for my Reverse Osmosis DI system to be controlled by the 24V port on my Neptune Apex Aquarium controller.Relays get hot, *these don't*, As they only draw current as they are moving, once open they stay that way as long as voltage is applied then when you turn off power they auto close on their own. One of these is for my 0ppm freshwater reservoir from the RODI system, another one I use from the reservoir to the saltwater mixing 50gal barrel. With floats tied into my controller my Reef water maintenance is all automated now.You can hear them when they activate quite clearly, which is good from a troubleshooting point of view but may be an issue if you use them in a quiet environment.

I bought this for a gravity fed, water barrel watering system. I paired it with a standard B-Hyve irrigation controller and on first usage it caused an overload error on the controller. The error appeared at random and sometimes wasn't seen for weeks. It turns out, after finding a hint on a redit thread, the capacitors in the valve cause a brief surge as they charge, which the controller thinks is a short circuit (it's not). An easy fix is to place a 30 ohm, 5 watt resister inline with the power output to the valve. While a 1 watt will work, it will get VERY hot and could melt something if it were touching it.

I'm very impressed with fit and finish of this product. Looks to be built well. I've tested one of them with a 24 volt power supply that i also ordered for my project and it works well. I maintained the power on the valve for approximately 45 minutes and the valve stayed open just as it should. When the power was removed, the valve closes. I also monitored the temperature on the valve and could not feel any heat at all. I'm in the process of installing these valves on my new shower to make it a smart shower. I'm using ge smart switches to activate the 24 volt power supplies for each of 3 valves. One will turn on the regular shower. Another will activate the rain shower and the last will activate the hand shower. I will have a smartthings button inside the shower that will be able to change back and forth inside the shower. I have no normal hot or cold water valves in this shower. The water will be routed in to the valves from a watts thermostatic valve which will be set to my perfect temperature. All this will be tied together with smartthings hub and Alexa. I will be installing a gfci plug that will have a battery back up plugged in and then all the components of this shower will be plugged in to this battery back up. I'm putting a lot of faith in these valves. Lets hope it works! Update!! Valves are working great after two weeks of use. I love my automated shower!