SEAL-ONCE Marine Ready Mix - 1 Gallon Penetrating Wood Sealer Waterproofer & Stain (Coastal Gray). Water-Based, Ultra-Low VOC Formula for high-Moisture Areas to Protect Wood Docks, Decks & Piers.

I bought this product and as a clear coat that would be water resistant for the interior of my raised vegetable garden, which is made out of pine. It has a slight sheen after the second coat is applied. And one thing is value for the money is that it’s warranty for 10 years. It was easily applied with a nylon brush and soaked in well.The final cost was $61 after tax using Prime membership. It was delivered the day after I bought it.A few days later it was available for $44 at Home Depot. My advise is to shop for the best price for this wonderful product

Honestly, I didn’t know what to think. There are several negative reviews, several positive, which left me in a bit of a lurch. Do I risk it and potentially regret it, or will I be a lucky one?I went ahead and pulled the trigger and couldn’t be happier. I followed the directions to a “T”, bought the clear and then purchased the black tint separately. This stuff goes on like a dream.It’s is a bit watery, which the green painting tape didn’t completely guard against, but being water based made for pretty easy cleanup. I’ll try the upgraded paint block tape next time.We’ve had a hard rain today and this stuff had performed flawlessly. Water beads up and runs right off, the wood fibers seem very well protected/sealed, nothing to complain about as far as adhesion goes.Time will tell if it lives up to its stated duration. Honestly though, it goes on so easy and looks so good, I’m not opposed to having to reapply earlier if needed.

Our dock boards are 25 years old. We countersunk the nails again, rented an orbital sander and sanded it with 80 grit. It was lighter yellow after sanding. Swept it off and probably could have used a wood brightener to clear up areas that became dark after we put on this sealer, but rain was coming and we wanted to get it done. We brushed on two coats. It smells like playdoh. Goes on like watery mod podge. Boards really soaked it in. It stabilized some of the more sliver prone areas. Dries quickly to walk on but needs two dry days to cure so not tacky. Water beads up nicely. Not slippery. Soft under foot now. Image was taken 24 hours after brushing on two coats. One gallon covered whole dock, 100 sq ft, with two coats. Would highly recommend this product.

The product worked as advertised. You have to be ready for the second coat, the first one was absorbed quickly. Easy to use, easy clean-up. Waiting to see how long it lasts.Cans should be shipped in plastic bags and the box marked "this end up" / fragile to reduce spillage issues.

All of my reviews are of things I buy for myself. I do not accept freebies or anything in exchange for my reviews. Period.The Marine stain-sealer works very good. It has good coverage, goes on easily and quickly and the result is long lasting and looks great. It's my go-to stain-sealer now. I use it on my decks instead of the nano type.I've read many of the reviews and throughout many of them the same theme comes up, lack of proper wood prep or not following instructions. Preoprly prepared wood and follwing instruction will provide you with one of the best stain and sealer applications of any product including the top tier name brands.The wood. If the wood isn't properly prepared then no matter what you put on it will fail prematurely.Putting any stain and selaer on new bought wood is a mistake unless you first clean it and sand it. The wood you buy often has a waxy coating on it and sometimes anti-mold agents put on it. If all you try to do is buy new wood for your deck or project and then just stain and seal it, it won't last. Clean the new wood first, it's easy and you can use a dilution of bleach, water and dawn dish soap. Use a deck brush to scrub the wood and then rinse it off real good. The let it dry for at least two days, 3 or 4 days if it's humid or not really warm outside. If you don't do this the stain and sealer will not take.Before you apply the stain-sealer, test for penetration. When you apply a small amount it should soak right into the wood. If it sits on top, it's not going to work, nothing else will either.If you are using it on a deck, sand it even after cleaning the boards. Then just before you sapply, wipe the boards with a damp clean rag. Do not rely on using an air compressor or brush to get the sanding dust off. The rag should be just damp, not soaking. Let the boards dry for a few minutes and then apply the stain-sealer. It should soak right into to wood. This coat should not be heavy, but rather a light to medium light coart. You should not see shine on the surface. If you do, that means the stain-sealer isn't penetrating and you didn't prepare the wood correctly.On a 16' typical deck board, start from one end and let it sit for about 5-10 minutes. Go back to where you started to put on the secnd coat. This will be a light coat and it might seem shiny for just a short time. Don't use a heavy coat or it will sit on top and come off ahwn it wears or water gets on it.Curing. Let it cure. 2 days is best. Planning for this time is essential. If you need to use the deck then do part of it and then block that area off. Rotate areas you can use vs areas that need to cure.When to apply. After the morning sun is up and temps are up. Applying stain-sealer while the air has a lot of humidity is bad practice. Same with trying to finish some boards late in the afternoon unless your area is still nice and warm with low humidity.Decks or docks near or over water. The air is full of humidity so only aply at the height of the warm part of the day. Many boards on docks have been previous treated with oily sealers. Sorry, you'll never get that stuff off the boards so your choice is to use a similar sealer because nothing else will hold up. So clean your dock boards really good. The problem is that anything you use to clean much be ok if it gets into the water or can drain into the water. That means if the wood was treated with any oily type selaer nothing you can use that is safe for the water will also take off the previous oily sealer. Use the right product for the job.Brushes. Amazingly, some of the cheap synthetic brushed worked far better than expensive name brand brushes. The more expensive brush load up too much sealer and that isn't what you want. You want the sealer to run off and out of the brush so you can control how much goes on the wood. Trying to spread the sealer using the brush is a waste of time and leads to a bad result. Light coats.Clean-up. Dawn dish soap applied directly to the brush on both sides and then just a little water to let it suds up. Work the brush in a stainless steel pan back and forth really good. The start rinsing. Keep rinsing until thre are no more suds and the water runs clear. SHake the brush and let dry. Do that and just slightly beding the bristles before next use is like a new brush.Prep, prep, prep. You only stain-seal once every few years, don't skimp on the prep.

I applied this in Grey on 3/4" pressure treated plywood on a toy hauler trailer ramp. It doubles as a deck so gets a lot of use. I kept applying until It looked sufficient. Used it 6 months in which it worked flawlessly. Swept it off and reapplied liberally. I now have a glossy shine on my ramp. I am very impressed with its repellency. It is very grippy wet or dry. Water based makes for easy, economical cleanup. A little leak in shipping contained and no problem. I rarely write reviews but this product impressed me.

I wasn't pleased with the results. I expected it to be a weathered Grau STAIN of sorts.Instead, it looks like a chalky, opaque white wash paint. It was used on clean, new pine deck boards.However, the application and clean-up were easy, and I can tell it has a good seal.

Phenomenal product highly recommend but purchase it in 5 gallon quantity less trash to throw away