InstallGear Car Keyless Entry System - Trunk Pop with Two 3-Button Remotes - Keyless Entry Car - Door Lock/Unlock and Key Fob - Keyless Entry System Kit for Car/Auto

For $35, this is a very decent kit. If you have experience with 12v electronics, then the provided diagram will be good for you. If you’ve never installed an alarm before, the documentation will not be particularly helpful.The siren sounds real cheap, but I replaced it with a DEI I had lying around. It has provisions for trunk release, pos/neg door trigger, pos/neg door locks, dual circuit parking lights, trunk release, and one on-arm accessory. It includes a starter kill relay, though the wire gauge is smaller than desired.All in all it installs easily, doesn’t feel as cheap as it is, and was worth a few dollars more than the cheapest option on amazon

I bought this keyless entry system for a 1992 car I just purchased. It worked great and was easy to install. However I will warn anyone without automotive mechanical experience the directions are terrible. So if you’r not familiar with the car your installing it on, don’t expect the directions to offer any assistance. With that being said everything worked great once installed. I can open the trunk, flash lights, honk horn and the range is actually really good for such an inexpensive unit. Definitely a great deal for anyone looking for basic keyless entry functions on an older car.

A lot of people complained about the instructions. The instructions are lacking a little if you are not familiar with car alarms. If you know what you are doing it does make sense. After a week of research I was able to figure out the meaning of terms and the instructions. Most of it is simple point to point wiring. The hardest part is and will be the door locks. You really need to research the type of locks you have and that is where the terminology and understanding of the circuit comes into play. I was installing mine on a 1990 ford mustang and these have type c reverse polarity door locks. The 5 wire relay configuration. Now once you understand that you can wire it up using the provided wires since the unit comes with onboard relays to do the job. I did try that first and it works for the most part but the wires do not carry enough current to open and close both sides of the locks. I happened to have two SPDT relays from work that I wired up using the five wire configuration. The catch is you have to cut the door lock and unlock wires and split the signal. That was the hard part to understand. What helped me was the 451M instructions. It explains everything you need to know about the different door locks and how to determine which is the switch side and which is the door lock side of the wires you just cut. If you don’t have these relays then I highly recommend the 451M. I used those instructions and used the install gear module to trigger those relays instead of using them to fire the locks directly. This allowed me to provide more amperage with thicker wires. Again I highly recommend researching the 451M module which is basically two relays in one unit. The only wires I didn’t use where the started relay cutoff wires and the window wire.Good luck and I hope this helps. There were no videos or websites that explained exactly what to do so that is why I am trying to provide some insight for future customers.

For the price, it's a decent alarm and it's nice that it has on-board relays for door lock solenoids.If I could give ZERO stars..., I would! Read update below..But..., one thing I found (and it was my own mistake) is that you CANNOT use the normal wire splices to connect to the various important feeds (ACC, +12v, Parking, Brake, etc.), you MUST strip and solder to feed wires. Problem is, splices are made for 16-18ga wires and the wires that this alarm comes with are like hair thin, so splices don't cut through insulation and connect. If you use the red ones (for 20-24ga wires), then it cuts TOO MUCH of the vehicle feed wire (normally 18-16ga or so), not leaving enough current carrying capacity. I learned all this the hard way. One thing that's become utterly and almost intolerably annoying, about ten seconds after you get out of the car, or into your car, or just open a door, it loudly chips three times, no matter what, alarm on, off, whatever. It's become so bloody annoying I fear just opening a door now. Anyway, I bumped my rating up as I thought for sure my ACC was connected (even the metal blade in the splice showed +12v, but it wasn't cutting into the wire for the alarm, so the alarm never knew when ACC was on or off and would set the alarm off if anything weird happened (all the time!). Anyway, my fault. Once all wires were double checked and stripped/soldered instead of spliced, the alarm works as it should (but I reserve the right to reduce my rating if the longevity of the alarm proves to be an issue...)Orig review: Like many, MANY other reviewers here, I have NO idea how this got such high reviews. The alarm sets itself off 5-seconds after you arm it, no matter how you program it, or what you do. No lights on, nothing, still just goes off by itself. After a full day of professional install, now another day to extract the POS and another day to install something else that may or may not work.Message from seller states to "disconnect door switch function" to stop the unstoppable loud three-beeps after doors are opened/closed. Let's see..., this alarm only has to triggers I can use. The doors and vibration. So..., no way to stop the bloody thing from constantly beeping with door opening, regardless of whether the alarm is off (when an alarm is OFF, I want it bloody well OFF!!!), just remove that function and voila, no beeping (and no alarm when a door is opened, great, as long people don't move the car too much, just open up and take what you want!)For the labor/work integrating this install, this is totally unacceptable. Others have gone as far as turning power off to the alarm when not in use, but that doesn't answer the problem. You use to lock doors going in for groceries, then come out, use the clicker to turn it off and open doors, but it's not really "off" until you find the power switch you installed in the feed line (12v) for the alarm...

la alarma funciona, pero está mal el instructivo, para abrir y cerrar las puertas hay que conectar todos los cables y no como indica el instructivo. Viendo el vídeo que subió uno de los clientes de amazon es suficiente para sortear este problema.En mi caso no conecte los cables del arranque y el de accesorios ya que principalmente me interesaba poder abrir y cerrar mi auto a distancia. Lo que no me gusta es que la alarma hace el armado pasivo siempre, lo cual es muuuuuuy incomodo ya que si estás dentro del auto hay que desactivarla.