Genuine Briggs & Stratton 590454 Magneto Armature Coil Replaces 591932 799381 790817

My mower suffered from weak / no spark, so I purchased this replacement. I used this part in my Sears-Craftsman 6.5 HP / 21" mower, model #944.362400. I think that this mower has the Briggs and Stratton "Quantum" engine. The "590454 Magneto Armature Coil" replaces original part# 802574 on this mower. Note that it looks different from the original part on the mower. A youtube video recommended setting the gap between this part and the flywheel to .012 inches. Others stated that the Briggs and Stratton manual calls for a .010 inch gap. I gapped it to .012 inches and it worked immediately. The part came with a note stating, "Air Vane Replacement. If replacing the armature on an engine built before date code 101230xx, the original air vane must also be replaced. Order and install 790848 Air Vane (sold separately)." I believe that my engine was built before that date, but it has no air vane at all. So, check before you purchase an air vane. You can find out about how to read date codes on the Briggs and Stratton web site.

Dropped right into place on my Briggs and Stratton powered Craftsman mower (about 10 years old). Took about 1.5 hours to install. This includes removing the cover, fuel tank, oil fill, etc. Removing the old coil and installing the new coli and putting all of the parts back on. I used a business card to space/shim it away from the flywheel. It started on the first pull and ran better than it had for a long while. It comes with a spark plug socket and boot on it, which was perfect for my machine. It comes with an alternate clip. It is packaged in a thin cardboard box and is wrapped in a plastic bag. There is no instruction sheet with the product. You will need a maintenance / repair manual to point you in the right direction if you are not used to pulling apart your mower. Or you can find instructional videos on YouTube. At first I thought it was a fuel problem. It would start on the first, second or third pull. If I shut it down to empty the bag, etc., if warm, it was hard to start. I would have to let it cool to get it to restart. This seems have solved the problem.

My 1990 model Briggs & Stratton powered Rover Regal lawn mowers magneto final gave up, so replaced it with this unit that superceeds the original. Tested the spark before attempting to start it, gave a really good spark, fitted the spark plug then it started first pull. It even starts easier now than it ever has since I bought the mower brand new, as previously it would always start on the 3rd or 4th pull. Its obvious that Genuine Briggs & Stratton magnetos have improved since 1990. Mind you, nothing else was touched, only the magneto changed.

I have got a Briggs & Stratton Intek Edge engine on my Hayter 56 mower. The mower is 16 years old and over the last two years the mower had become very difficult to start when hot, sometimes it would and sometimes you could pull the cord a dozen times before it would start. Last winter I completely rebuilt the carburettor as I though that was the issue as it was flooding when stopped as the needle valve did not seem to close. That resolved, come springtime and grass cutting season again the same starting issues persisted and gradually got worse. I thought at that point of selling the mower on as it had become a liability, but decided that after watching a couple of You tube vids and speaking to a couple of small engine mechanice that it may be the coil. For just over £42 I thought I would give it a go as this option was much cheaper than a new mower! There are plenty of videos on line to show you how to change the coil and also how to check if you need one using a multimeter. For this model of engine the resistance in ohms should be between 2500 and 5000 ohms. The higher the resistance the weaker the spark and hence difficulty starting. Mine measured 4600 ohms so I thought changing the coil would be worthwile. It takes about an hour to take off the guards fit the new coild and put it back together again. Setting the correct air gap is also important the working range on this engine is 0.160-0.360mm. I set the gap to 0.250 using a feeler guage as that seemed to be the gap set by the manufacturer on the old coil. As oon as it was all put back together it started on the second pull, and has subsequently started on the first pull when hot, during mowing,about 800M2 , there also seems to now be much more power in the engine as the fuel is burnt more efficiently. So in a nutshell if you are having problems starting the engine when hot this may be your answer, my mower now performs like a new one.

OEM product. Fit right on and fixed the starting problem with my mower. Check your fitment before you buy.