Dome Automatic Main Water Shut-Off Valve Controller

The media could not be loaded. Initially I bought two of these for water shut off and used one of them for water. It worked great as a water shut-off valve.Then I decided to automate the projector door for a 150” bedroom screen. I just needed to add one piece of linkage...So I bought a short 6” forked-end marine turn-buckle and threw away most of the Dome brackets for attaching to a pipe. Home theater projector is now hidden whenever we’re not watching a movie. I included a few pictures of the project....Additionally I have one of these on my water valve. Perfect operation in the first year and I do test it from time to time.I’ll be buying a third unit to automate the door to a roomba cave. You don’t see any hinges on my work because I use SOSS Hidden Door hinges.I wish I could give this 4.5 stars but can do only 4 stars, but because there are no limit switch adjustments and also I believe the 12VDC/1A power supply may be a bit marginal I'm kept from 5 stars. I may try a bigger current source soon to make the motor just a tad stronger; I don’t trust the puny power source, not that it’s failed yet.EDIT: I changed my rating to 5 stars with new information after working with this z-wave motor a 3rd time. On the projector door automation project I was thinking that the motor might be a 'tad' weak because it was fighting my hatch door and yes, I'll admit this was not it's intended purpose... but lifting that door requires less force than turning a water valve. Instead, I decided to make some improvements to my door/linkage design and investigate a better power supply. Practice makes perfect so I bought a 3rd Dome water shut-off valve and built a "Roomba cave" complete with a door that opens and closes in my 6.5" baseboards. The Roomba door opens and the Roomba cleans the room, returning to it's docking station inside of the Roomba cave and then the door closes. Again, I used SOSS hidden door hinges... because there is nothing dumber than a "secret door" with the hinges showing. This time, I made a slight modification to the edge of the door with the hinges and realized that the wood was butting up to the door jamb wood on wood, causing the motor to work extra hard to close those last few degrees of swing to 0-degrees. What I did was two-fold.A) I decided to slightly chamfer my door edges shaving back on an angle the door's hinge edge so it closes with the same seamless gap it had before, but there is now a bit of room across the entire jamb edge. This reduced the stress on the closing edge dramatically and now the door practically snaps closed every time. I also adjusted my lever arms a bit.B) I bought a different DC power supply to play with the voltage/current. Yes, the power supply that is supplied with the unit is very cheap and weak. In fact the Dome power supply sent to me on purchase #3 quit working less than 5 minutes after I got it... and no, I won't knock off a star for that because I don't like their power supply anyway and this review is about the motor. For a power supply, I use this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT5WVCG/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 purchased through amazon. It will do about 36Watts and covers 5V, 6V, 7.5V, 9V, 12V, 13.5V and 15V and has Amps of capacity; this motor only needs a little under 0.5A at 12V and I didn't want to worry about power. As for which voltages work with these Dome Water Valves, ALL of the voltages from 7.5V and up work. Here are the results:5V, 6V setting did not work at all... no z-wave, no motor function.Z-wave and motor worked for all other settings of this power supply...7.5V setting worked fine, slowest motor action but better torque than the 12V setting.9V setting worked great, still slower motor action but the best torque. Better than 12V setting.12V setting... worked well, even a tad better than their el-cheapo supply sent with the unit (no current sag).13.5V setting... faster than 12V and torque about the same as 12V.15V setting... fastest motor speed but reduced starting torque.Note that for this golden power supply even the 15V setting had up to 2.4Amps available so the motor was able to take however much current it needed.For the projector door, placed right in front of a projector hanging in the closet of the next room, one of my favorite special effects is opening/closing the door with the projector turned on. As the door opens and closes, the light on the screen from the projector rises and falls, washing across the vertical length of the screen as you hear the quiet whir of this motor... it's awesome... especially at a slower speeds/better torque achievable with the 7.5V and 9V settings.The Roomba cave door works in a similar fashion to the projector door only the hinges are on the top of the door so the door opens up. I didn't want the Roomba tripping over the door on it's way out of the cave ;). For the door of the Roomba cave, quick speed of opening/closing is preferable so I use 13.5V on that power supply. Anyway, 5 stars! Great product. Versatile unit. I have a couple of automation's planned for the walk-in-closet but don't know if this motor will be appropriate yet... I think I need a lead-screw mechanism. Anyway, for opening closing small doors, this is the unit you want.

I've added a ton of smart home devices to my home since moving in a year ago. This was something I only thought about after adding a reverse osmosis water purifier. In the box with the RO unit was a leak alarm, I already had a few SmartThings water sensors, so I didn't install the alarm that came with the RO unit. But this got me thinking, if there is a leak and I'm not home, this could be bad. So I started researching water shut-off devices. So, far so good. I have SmartThings as a platform and use Google Home for everything else. This is a Z-Wave device and it was a snap to install in SmartThings. My water line was a bit of a challenge as it's in a crawl space area not far from my cellar. I had to run A/C power to the area where I need to install this, that wasn't a huge issue as I'm pretty handy and had already run a couple of other outlets for a dishwasher and a stove in the same area. Mounting the shut-off was a bit more challenging, the water line was run under the floor joists, so there wasn't much room to work and they had mounted the valve sideways. I had to drill a couple of holes in the bracket on the end where the clamps go, so that I could secure it to one of the floor joists. Lined it up and plugged it in and it worked the first time. I have about 50/50 Z-Wave and Zigbee devices so I knew I had signal coverage. I added the Dome shut-off device to my SmartThings app before taking it down into the crawl space to install, so that I already knew it would be setup and working. I modified my current SmartThings routines that I had setup to alert me if there was a leak. (This is simply turning a couple of my smart lights bright red, so that I would see them and know that there was a leak being detected at one of my sensors.) I just added the task of shutting the valve to that routine. Done. Took a squirt bottle and simulated a leak and my lights changed color and a faucet I left running soon stopped. Checked the app and it showed the valve closed. Tested the valve a couple of times and each time it shut off the water. This was one of the easiest devices I've added to SmartThings and as far as the hardware, it looks well made and worked without any issues. I'll test it again in a few weeks to make sure it's all still working, but like I said in my headline, this is the most boring device I've added, but when/if I need it I'll sure be glad I setup this in advance of any major water issues. I'm debating on getting more water leak sensors, I have one in my cellar by my water softener and RO system and one by my water heater. I wish Samsung hadn't bailed out on making sensors, Dome has some and another company called Aeotec is supposed to be picking up and making similar if not identical devices to what Samsung used to make. I'd like to put one by my dishwasher and under the bathroom sinks. But for now, the valve is installed and working like a charm.

Well, the other day I had to shut off the water valve as I needed to change out a Delta shower diverter water cartridge ... easy peasy! I figured I'd kill two birds with one wet finger, so I picked up the Samsung water sensor behind the toilet, licked (a clean) finger and triggered the sensor, thus began the dance of the Google Home's announcing a water leak was detected in the bathroom and the Dome valve to shut off (so I thought). Much to my dismay, when I tested the water in the sink, water was still flowing. Checking logs, I saw multiple instances of "Main House Valve valve is closed". So down to the garage I went, and I could hear the Dome struggling to close the valve. I do run a monthly cycle of the valve and didn't see this issue in the logs last month. I had to "help" the Dome to close the valve and "help" the Dome to open the valve after changing the cartridge. After disassembling, I found that the Dome gears were grinding and having trouble moving the shut off arm no resistance. I installed both a new shut off valve and the Dome 2.5 years ago. The shut off valve is still very smooth. I emailed support three times and they have yet to respond. I guess I’ll have to trash the dome, and purchased an eco-net bulldog. This one is very strong and smooth. I do not recommend you waste your money on the Dome shut off valve.I did have a new shutoff valve put in about 2 years ago.