

🌟 Seal your style with nature’s purest touch!
HOPE'S 100% Pure Tung Oil is a premium, food-safe, and waterproof natural wood finish that penetrates deeply to protect and enhance indoor and outdoor surfaces. Ideal for wood, concrete, stone, and cast iron, it offers a flexible, durable, and non-toxic seal trusted by professionals and DIY enthusiasts alike. With a 32 fl oz bottle from a 50-year USA-based leader, it’s the ultimate choice for lasting beauty and safety.























| ASIN | B000I1QA6E |
| Best Sellers Rank | #22,381 in Health & Household ( See Top 100 in Health & Household ) #26 in Wood Conditioners, Waxes & Oils |
| Brand | HOPE'S |
| Brand Name | HOPE'S |
| Compatible Material | Wood, Concrete, Stone, Cast Iron, Food Contact Surfaces |
| Customer Reviews | 4.8 out of 5 stars 3,416 Reviews |
| Finish Type | Flat |
| Finish Types | Flat |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00026214020023 |
| Item Form | Liquid |
| Item Type Name | Tung Oil |
| Item Weight | 32 Ounces |
| Liquid Volume | 32 Fluid Ounces |
| Manufacturer | The Hope Company |
| Material | Moisture Resistant, Non-Toxic, Solvent Free |
| Material Type | Moisture Resistant, Non-Toxic, Solvent Free |
| Recommended Uses For Product | Exterior |
| UPC | 026214020023 778295650315 |
| Unit Count | 32.0 Fluid Ounces |
J**Y
Wonderful Sealer
I used HOPE'S Pure Tung Oil to seal two raised bed gardens. I was concerned about using something that could leech toxins into the soil and then be taken up by the vegetable plants, but that is not a concern with this oil. It is 100% pure. The smell is nice, earthy, nutty. It applies very easily. The appearance is beautiful. It only slightly darkened the cedar but gave it a warm, beautiful color. Clean up was a breeze. I have no doubt it will improve the durability and increase the life of my garden beds. I will not hesitate to use it again on future beds I add to my garden.
M**1
Food-safe “pure” Tung oil worked great for garden box
Used this as an alternative to pricier cedar garden box oil for a raised garden bed made from Douglas Fir (cedar cost too much). Took a bit to confirm the difference between this “pure” Tung oil and something like Watco “Tung oil finish” that includes additives for drying that aren’t food safe. This product fit the bill and is all natural and food safe. I used about 1/2 - 2/3 of this quart bottle to apply 2 coats on 30-40 linear feet of wood. Will likely use up the rest to reapply on exterior surfaces in late summer or early fall so it can cure a bit before wet/cold winter weather hits. Smells nice and uniquely nutty. Unlike other products like laquer, dutch oil varnish or paint I didn’t need a respirator to avoid headaches, nor other caustic products to clean up. This was really pleasant to work with. Applied very easily with a cloth or brush. It’s like wiping wood with olive oil or something - not super tacky or messy to clean either. Used a bit of odorless mineral spirits to clean up & wash hands, but soap & water cut most of it. Gave the light fir boards a nice even tan that looks great. Similar to, maybe slightly darker than, plain butcher block oil. Only downside is the drying/curing time - you’re supposed to wait at least 7-10 days, ideally a month or more, for it to cure & harden before exposing it to heavy sun or water. We didn’t have time for that so it was outside after only about a week and still retained a bit of the tung oil odor. Hopefully it was waterproof enough to last a while. So far it’s holding up great! Curious to see what it will look like in a year or so …
J**M
Made outdoor eucalyptus table look new
I had used a different product to try to protect my eucalyptus table. Looked good after applying and was very easy to use but the finish did not last and table began to weather. Table was brought inside in the winter. I switched to Hopes Tung oil this time. Sanded the table down with 60 grit. Thinned Tung oil with mineral spirits 50/50 for the first coat. Used a small brush to apply. The oil soaked in nicely and left a very nice finish. After an hour I removed any excess oil with a cloth. Next 4 coats were not thinned as much and applied 24 hrs. apart. It does take long time to try. The other product left a glossier finish and did not require excess to be removed. It all soaked in but was actually only on the surface. I am more concerned about protection. Happy with results. Table is still drying in the garage out of direct sunlight so yet to see how finish lasts. Looks brand new. Pros: Easy to apply, fairly pleasant nutty smell. Easy water and dawn clean up. Makes wood look new. Con: Excess has to be removed as all the oil does not get absorbed. Long time between additional coats. Full cure time is very long.
G**G
Takes a long time to dry, so with some patience, it protects your table for years to come.
Works as expected. As many state, it can take a long time for it to dry, and takes several coats, so for me it took several weeks do do multiple coats on a wood table, but trust the process. It brings out the grain in the table very well, without making it too much darker, and you can tell the surface is harder and repels water. There were some white water stained spots on our table that this product completed fixed. Good product!
T**N
Is what it is
Many products called Tung Oil aren’t really Tung Oil, or only partly Tung Oil. This is my first time using pure, 100% Tung Oil. I wouldn’t use it on an application that requires water resistance because despite claims to the contrary I know it’s inferior to many other finishes. I like that it pops the grain on antique furniture without any sheen. Refinishing antiques might be the only application I’ll use it for. It couldn’t be easier to apply, but it takes FOREVER to dry. Subsequent coats can be added after 24 hours, but in my cold garage it’s taken a few weeks to dry. I suspect warmer temperatures would accelerate the drying time. I would recommend mixing it 50/50 with mineral spirits for at least the first coat just to get better penetration, since in pure form it’s about as thick as pancake syrup. I wouldn’t recommend it for every application, but I love it on certain pieces of furniture.
F**N
great product, great results, and easy
I had used this in the hopes that it would treat the wood etching I had on a pizza board as a present. it not only was easy to use, but did a excellent job of bringing out the color of the wood and the etching, I will purchase again. It does take a long time to dry, but the wait is worth it.
D**A
FOOD SAFE
The history of tung oil is intriguing. Hope's is top rated for purity, quality and solvent free and safe for kitchen use.. I refinished a garage-sale wooden kitchen cart , that is I sanded the old, peeling varnish down to the bare wood. I applied the tung oil with a soft rag as a YouTube expert woodworker demonstrates. It is viscous but not so hard to spread and rub in. The rule of thumb in applying all finishes is less is more--meaning more thin coats is better than one thick coat. I applied three. 24 hours drying time and very light sanding with fine sandpaper between each coat. A final buffing with a soft cloth. Each coat dried to velvet or satin smooth finish. Did not darken the wood or change it's natural light color in the least. Amazing to the touch. Love it. An oil from the seed of the nut of the Chinese tung (meaning heart in Chinese) tree, which ancient Chinese sea merchants used to waterproof their ships. The smell is not strong like any varnish product which takes veritably weeks to vanish (as another table someone made for me took) and after about two days once the work was done the mild odor completely vanished.
M**K
All natural oil, no solvents
We've had a scandinavian teak table for 16 years, and when purchased it came with a quart of Danish teak oil. We oiled the table twcie a year for a long time, but after having babies the maintenance fell dramatically. When we started having white water / moisture marks on the table more regularly we started oiling again, but soon used up almost the entire quart. [Side note about water marks on furniture: mix a little wood ash from a fire place with some wood oil (or even vegetable / olive oil) until you have a thick paste like tooth paste. The ash should be as fine as possible, almost like powder prior to mixing. Then use a LOT of elbow grease and rub, mostly with the grain of the wood. I'll rub in an "X" pattern across the grain quite a bit on our teak table as well. It'll take some time, but the water mark will disappear. After rubbing for minutes, take a clean cloth coated in oil and wipe up whatever didn't get rubbed in. If you still see a ghost of white, rub with more ash/oil paste. I used to rub with a cloth, but now just wear nitrile (latex, whatever you've got) gloves so I have a better feel and none of the paste is soaked up into the cloth.] Back to our teak table. I started looking for replacement teak oil and was shocked to see everything was diluted with mineral spirits or other solvents. Some teak "oil finish"products don't even contain any oil at all! After researching, I discovered this was the norm. Our original bottle of teak oil was much thicker and darker than anything I could find elsewhere. More research led me to realize that real treak oil is hard to find and very expensive. The closest product in a real oil without solvents is Tung oil (from a nut). This oil is THICK. And in the absence of solvents does not get soaked into the wood as easily. Ergo, more elbow grease and time spent rubbing it in, and then wiping up whatever doesn't get absorbed. But the finish is top drawer! The chances of water marks are substantially reduced, the table wipes up clean with ease. Even sticky toddler fingers are no match for a well oiled table. The quart will last us years. It does have an odor, but not as bad as those products with solvents. Open the windows and oil your furniture in the spring and fall, or any time the weather is fine.
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