SUNLU 3D Printer Resin, Strong Durable Nylon Like 3D Resin for LCD DLP SLA Resin 3D Printers, 395-405nm UV Light Curing 3D Printing Liquid Photopolymer Resin, Good for Functional Parts, 1000g, Black

I used this to make the Hero Me Gen 7 V2 parts for my FDM printer. The parts came out alright, but some of the thinner parts have curled with time. The parts and supports are very flexible/gelatinous after printing, but they become extremely strong and rigid after curing. The quality of the prints is also excellent once you dial-in the exposure settings, but the resolution is limited to 25 or 18um depending on your printer. 10um will result in a diminished resolution of smaller details due to a lack of adherence strength.You will need to use more supports and braces, but the result is exceptional.

This stuff is amazing to print with! I've printed 7 different objects so far with 0 failures. This stuff is sturdy, dimensionally accurate and it doesn't need more than a couple of bottom layers (at 10s). I used 1.6s to 2s to depending on flexibility vs hardness. At 1.6s it's almost like a hard rubber. At 2s it is hard and nearly indestructible.I tried washing it with alcohol but it still felt a little sticky / tacky, so I washed it with plain ol tap water and cleaned right up! I'm going to save a fortune in alcohol from the looks of it.I photocured my first print, it looked great, but yellowed. I decided to just put my next print in a sunny window for 30 mins. No yellowing and it cured great!Fun fact! My cat knocked my prints off the 2nd story window onto the concrete below. It didn't harm it. Everything so far has been fairly large with simple geometries (containers of various kinds). I'm going to print some chess pieces next and I'll give an update when I do.

The price is low and affordable however there is a bit of shrinkage. Large prints have a high tendency to separate from supports unless done right.

When you branch off from your standard resin your always wonder what the pros and cons of a resin are besides change in color or opacity.This is one of those resins that you want to consider. With a stronger more durable make up this resin will prevent swords spears and fingers from models from breaking allowing a large room to bend. It won't be full slinky but it's enough to stop about 60% of accidental breaks. It allows your resin printer to be considered for making cosplay or props that will be taken outside of display cases.On the downside is that ALL of the resin is more durable. Causing more strain on your Vats FEP film is a common occurance and I have to change them about 20% more often. On top of that consider using significantly less supports for your models/props because they will not want to be removed from your prints. So using a hobby night of hobby scissors is a consideration or sanding or after care for your prints will be needed.Overall Sunlu offers more durability for prints that will be handled significantly more often that if feels like an FDM print in exchange for price point, wear and tear for your printer.TLDRPros:StrongerDurabilityCon:Wears out printerAll of the resin is stronger including supports.

This stuff is really great! The prints came out really flexible. Which is the main complaint I've always had with resin prints. I haven't printed any miniatures with it yet. The details facing away from the plate are super sharp and it takes really well to a hobby knife for cleaning up little support nubs. The only thing I'm not sure of is the details facing the build plate as the prints I've done so far haven't really had much of that. So far though I am super impressed and I think this maybe my new main go to resin.

Ive lowered exposure time and bottom layer and keeps coming out well.More durable to bending and cracking than siraya tech fast but less than blu. But much less viscous than blu which makes cleanup easier and thus detail better. Ill probably stick to this as my go to resin for everything and maybe cut with tenacious in the cases i need more durable and dont care about cleanup time or high viscocity

I had printed a few things with a standard resin in the past that broke fairly easily while I was trying to remove supports or when my kids would get a hold of them. I decided to try a nylon like resin and was pleasantly surprised at the print quality and strength of the material. I sliced the files using Lychee generic profile for grey resin and printed the parts on a Creality Halot One. I will definitely be buying more of this material to print with in the future.

I’m not a fan. This is the only SUNLU resin I’ve tried so I guess I’d be curious to see how the regular resin or hard resin works. I’ve tried multiple calibration prints at different exposure times and I had nice results. Nowhere near as crisp and clean as my favorite go to resin, Epax Hard but they were more than acceptable. The problem is my prints. I haven’t had any failures but just not happy with the results. I guess I would consider then failures since I haven’t used any of them.With multi piece prints, they won’t fit together without a lot of trimming or shaving. Even if I make multiple tweaks to the exposure time, I pretty much always get the same results. Supports are so much harder to remove then with Epax Hard. Im guessing it’s because the Hard resin snaps off faster because it’s not as flexible as the nylon like resin. Also I’ve noticed that the base layer under the supports is not nice and clean. Almost looks like layers are separating. Just the first few. If I use a semi firm brush to clean it, the layers come off. After curing I hit it with a quick sanding and it looks alright but why?I love how I can print something with Epax Hard and know it’s going to print perfect. Maybe I’m not used to the finicky SUNLU resin. But for me I’m not going to waste ant more time on this.