Prozix Amber PEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 220mm x 220mm Ultem 1000 Build Surface for Anet A8, Anet A6, Reprap Prusa 13

Applied easier than expected to my stock Anet A8 heatbed, no real issues with the adhesive and prints are still sticking wonderfully over 100 hours of printing later.Beforehand, I had been having a heck of a time getting PETG to stick to my printing surface despite trying blue tape, glue, hairspray, and all the other home remedies found on printer forums. After coating my surface with PEI, I can now say that I haven't lost a single print to lack of adhesion. It really has been a massive QOL improvement compared to my previous setup.Note: Since PETG has a history of over-adhesion to PEI, be sure to only clean the print bed with Windex or other similar window cleaner. If you use isopropyl alcohol for cleaning you'll end up with prints fusing to the print bed or taking chunks of the bed with it during removal, so be careful!

Great stuff to use on your DaVinci Uno 1.0 heated bed when it starts to chip. Clean the bed as well as you can, trim the PEI sheet to fit between the metal feet holding the glass (test fit no fewer than 3 times, marking the front!!), peel a wee-little of the backing along one edge (the back) and CAREFULLY position (as close to VERTICAL as you can get), slowly lay almost flat and peel - flattening and peeling as you go (I started from the back). If you screw up the positioning though, well, yer literally stuck.I placed this directly on the existing chipped glass as an easy fix (kinda like self-leveling concrete) - doing so requires **manual** calibration afterwards.After sticking it on, I buffed it out with 1200 grit paper and wiped it down with IPA. Prints stick amazingly well now.

I've tried a number of different build surfaces over the past year and this has been the only one that actually worked. I've always had difficulty getting ABS to print and with this build surface it just worked right away. I did scuff it up with some 600 grit sandpaper as recommended and I had no problems getting the first layer to adhere. I print with a bed temperature of 100c in an enclosure and I get no warping and the bottom surface is nice and smooth. The part is also easy to remove once the bed cools.

I have used glass, gluesticks, hairspray and a generic build tac, but this stuff works the best for PLA (have not used it for other materials yet). I rarely need to print with a brim except on very small parts and things stick when they should and release when it's cooled down. I run PLA with a bed temp of 60-70 deg C and will drop the temps to 60 after the first layer. I have applied this to one side of a glass plate so I have the option of flipping it for regular glass, but right now I would not bother since there have been no issues with the PEI. This also leaves the part with a surface that is is smooth (somewhat matte). Only issue I have is that my printer is a delta, so I had to give up some edges and with with a smaller piece of PEI. It would have fit better for my printer if I could have bought a circular sheet.

Great PEI sheet, prints stick awesome until they are cool. When cool, a little prying with a thin flexible piece of metal and they pop right off.A little thinner than I would ideally like but that's minor. They adhesive that comes with it is serious stuff, and a pain unless you are steady like a surgeon.

Better than blue tape, by far. I've been having luck with blue tape for a long time, but I was getting sick of it not sticking to the table with nylon and abs. This has no problems at all. I still put glue down, but it sticks to the bed and the parts come off easier, and smoother.

worked very well projects stick to my bed very well. Once I adjusted the space between the bed and the nasal vender supplied a piece of paper to use as a gage. will buy another to keep on hand.

Works amazing on ABS filiment. No glue no tape just the pei and bed heated to 105 celsius. Be sure to let your part cool before removing it and it will come off with little effort.