Silicone Body Mount Kit for 2008-2016 Ford F-250 F-350 Regular Cab Extended Cab Superior Silicone Cab Mount Bushings Improve Bumpy Ride Durable Components Outperforms OEM and PU Mounts (Red 6 Pack)

Installed perfectly on '09 F-250 crew 2WD gas. I replaced only the front 6 mounts, as I recently had changed the 2 rear cabs mounts separately. THERE IS A DIFFERENT KIT FOR CREW CABS THAT HAS 8 MOUNTS. Like the description clearly states, body mount bolts are not included. Mounts are silicone/steel, fit and index like oem, and appear to be good quality materials. Installed with zero issues.Purchased this kit to resolve a body/frame clunk sound when turning. That sound was resolved by installing this kit. Torquing to OEM specs produces more road noise, I backed all out from 76 to 65 ft-lbs, used loctite, excess road noise eliminated. I feel like I have a new truck! This kit was worth every penny for me!

Took a chance purchasing these for my 2008 F250. OEM body mounts were trashed. Thanks Ford. Did lots of research and discovered that I preferred silicone replacement body mounts as opposed to OEM or polyurethane. Found these on Amazon. Thought I'd take a chance. Glad I did. However, I discovered some idiosyncrasies about changing these out. Not a deal breaker by any means.1. When attempting to remove the bolt that holds the body mount in place, I would suggest accessing the cage nuts (not the most brilliant design Ford could have come up with), heating them up for 30-40 seconds with a propane torch similar to what plumbers use to sweat copper fittings. MAP gas not necessary. Be careful to not burn your truck down! Use common sense. Heating the bolt head from under the truck is fairly useless. Some cage nuts will still spin causing lots of frustration. The cage nuts are fairly accessible. On my truck the front ones are accessible on either side of the radiator. Simply remove the rubber air baffles on both sides of the radiator and you will easily see the cage nuts. Then inside the cab there is one on the driver's and passenger's floor boards. You will find black rubber oval plugs. Simply remove to access the cage nuts. At the back of the cab you will find 1 at each of the corners. Remove the jack and related tools and you will find black caps about 1" in diameter and about 1" tall. These pop out. Using this method speeds up the process.2. Do not torque the new body mounts to OEM settings, unless you want to experience engine vibration "noise" along with road noise and harsh ride. On my truck, I torqued mine to 50 ft. lbs. and all the unpleasantness disappeared. Now it rides good! No engine noise, no harsh related ride, no road noise. Just quiet and smooth. Yes it still rides like an F250, not an F150.I like the design of these mounts. They index just like OEM. The bottom cup fits very well inside the the upper cup. There is even a rubber isolator with waterproof grease on the part of the bottom cup that fits inside the upper cup. This helps ensure that they will come apart if they ever need to be removed. OEM does not have this feature.Am I happy with these mounts? ABSOLUTELY! So happy I didn't have to pay $400 dollars for them. So happy!

Nice quality. Indexed to fit the opening. No issues. Nice that they include the diagrams and such in the box.Installed these on a 2012 F250 Super Duty Regular Cab. You need the 8 pack for an extended cab.Some Install tips:1. Don't use an impact wrench - you will spin the nuts in the carrier and make your job harder.2. Heat the nut if you can do so safely (it's a bear to get to most of the time). If not, heat the bolt. The issue is the Loctite that they used on the old bolts - and heat makes a huge difference.3. Be prepared to cut the old bushings out with a Sawzall after you remove the bolt. If they are seized up, they won't come apart and will have to be cut. The good news is that the steel is mild and goes quickly.4. It's good to buy the replacement bolts while you are at it. Note: Do not substitute the bolts. They are hardened and must have the same rating as the ones you are replacing.5. You will need a 24" breaker bar.

The ride quality and road noise have been greatly improved. Took me about 2 hours to change these from the old ones. Would’ve been an hour had I not spun a cage nut on the front passenger.For anyone needing a bit of helpful info1. Heat each bolt with torch to loosen old lock tight2. Use 15mm socket with 6” extension on a breaker bar to break loose the bolt3. Switch to ratchet to fully removeNO IMPACT DRIVE4. Use a pry bar to remove the bottom half of the mount.5. Repeat for the other cab mounts on the same side6. Lift cab from the front pinch weld just enough to replace the front two mounts.THE NEW ONES ONLY FIT ONE WAY7. Move the jack towards the back of the cab and raise the cab enough to replace the mid and rear mounts. (No mid on extended cab)8. Lower cab9. Install the lower half of the new cab mounts10. Insert the new bolt. (Bought separately) torque specs on mounts11. Repeat on passenger side.Tips: if you spin one of the forward cab mounts, you can remove the grill and headlights where you will find an access point that isn’t great but will help you control of the cage nutIf you spin one under the cab, remove door trims, pull back carpet, and you should see an oval rubber plug that you can remove to access the cage nuts.

I ordered this specifically for my truck make and model. Only two bolts came with nuts. And no others did. The two back bolts are an inch too short and there are no nuts. A waste of money.

Going on the assumption silicone is better then the rotten stuff that come with original equipment. Unfortunately there are no instructions for the do it yourselfer out there and so was not aware one had to heat the nut in order to loose the lock tight they were assembled with. Two of the body mounts fit up perfectly while the 4 front ones required larger ones as the holes are .300 bigger then the pilot boss of the silicone body mounts. I installed them anyways hoping they will stay put with 76 ft/lbs torque. Otherwise I think they’ll work out great. I just learned while installing them that an important spacer is missing from the 4 mounts is why they are loose. Am unhappy you could not account for all the pieces to this assembly.