HELLA 003427291 Vision Plus 190x132mm High/Low Beam 12V Halogen Conversion Headlamp (HB2), White

easy to install on my vehicle, literally the same process as changing the original sealed bulb, future changes can be done from the back. Looks like a quality product. Light output increased more than 25% from my old H6054. (replaced one side, measured bright spot shone on garage door from both sides, old was 740fc, new was 1150fc) There is a much more intense focal spot at the center of the beam which should increase sight distance dramatically. Light cutoff to avoid blinding the oncoming traffic was MUCH better than stock, such that standing 20 feet away at 6 ft tall the new light looked dimmer than the old light despite the increased output. Output to the sides and down increased quite a bit as well but as each falls off gradually there's no way to accurately measure the difference. This is with the included bulb. I'm planning on upgrading to a higher output bulb and will post results if I get the chance. *please note, the limitations of the camera in the dark make the photo of questionable value. There is a bright spot in the center of the left beam that isn't shown and the upper cutoff was more dramatic in real life. EDIT: I switched the bulbs to Silverstar Ultra 9003 and did the same rough light output test. The pattern remained the same and the light reading at the brightest spot increased by another 25% or so. I've driven with these quite a bit at night and visibility is now on par with any modern vehicle.

I’ve done several installs of the Hella H4 conversions. The quality is much better than most of the cheaper kits, with this being all glass and metal, not plastic. The brightness is great, and the beam pattern is just fine. It’s not “just like a brand new car with HID lights”, but it is a vast improvement over old sealed-beam headlights. Note that you should make sure you’re getting full voltage/amperage at your headlight connectors. If you’ve got an old car with old wiring and bad headlight connectors, you’re probably not getting full power to the headlights, and these won’t perform at their full brightness. Make sure your wiring is in proper shape, or install a relay and wiring to bypass your old wiring. The car I installed these in had a 2 volt drop between battery voltage and headlight voltage. I installed a relay circuit and these headlights work great. Also note that the back of these headlights where the bulb inserts, is larger than the old sealed-beam headlights. Depending on your vehicle and how the headlights mount, you may need to modify your headlight buckets to hold these headlights.

Sold as each, purchased two 178mm/ 7" with no bulb, receives H4/9003. I installed into original headlamp buckets, sealed beam location 7-in. Installed in my 1957 Chevy pickup truck. If fits good along with ring that holds into bucket. Added a new LED H4 / 9003 bulb. These housing assembly assist bright lights. Doesn't look cheap like some other competitors. Looks OE. The sealing cap can be cut to install a two piece LED. I cut to remove the three terminal slots and just mad it round. Inside has sealing ribs that keep water and dust out. I recommend if you plan on installing LEDs get a two piece design. Most are, install the boot over the LED bulb base, roll inside out over the heat sink or as much as you can. You will install round part mount that is concentric with the housing in the housing ( three tangs ). Lock retainer down. Next install bulb with boot with the correct ailingment and twist to lock in. Next roll large part of the seal forward towards the housing of the bulb. Index seal if you must so the seal TOP is up at 12 O'clock position. Ever with a ballist/box on the LED bulb leads, it will fit in the bucket.

I bought this to replace the stock headlamps in my stock '13 JKRU. Pulling the stock assemblies revealed just why it looks like driving with two lit matches on the front of my Jeep at night. So cheaply made. The Hella Vision Plus assemblies bolted right in without issue and, according to the stamped glass, are E code. I probably would have been done in ten minutes but I had to take time to find dropped screws and dig a screwdriver off the frame of the Jeep where it fell through but never hit the floor. You know, the usual stuff. Anyway, it was still light outside so I installed one Hella and, of course, immediately turned the head lights on to see if I could notice a difference. In the daylight inside my garage about 6' from a cord of wood, there was minimal difference in the beam other than the pattern. Now, here is where it get's a little weird: the Hella was throwing heat compared to the stock JK lamp. I'm not exaggerating. A good 2'-3' away from the front of my Jeep, I could feel the heat on my hand verses feeling nothing from the stock lamp. Uncomfortable heat. No chance of Ice or snow building up on these bad boys. I finished the install and when it got dark, went for a ride. I didn't notice any need to adjust the lamps and did not get flashed from oncoming traffic. The stock Hella bulbs still gave a warm light although slightly 'whiter' than the h13 Sylvania's. Here is why I gave this 4 stars: you will not get more light from these assemblies since the stock bulb and the H4 bulb are the same wattage. Okay, maybe a little more in my case since the H13 Sylvania's were 2 years old and the H4 Hella bulbs brand new but apples to apples, they are the same. What you do get, which explains the heat, is better light throw. The difference on low is a nice, wide pattern that better lights the ditches and has a nice cutoff and pushes out a little farther but on high, they really reach out there and let you see. I mean, way down the road. I don't know why Jeep cut's corners on such a simple device as a light reflector. I'm awaiting the upgraded light harness so I can bypass the stock, underrated wiring and move to a 100/80 bulb. Way back when, I built a bypass for an old '86 Cherokee and the extra power to the lamps really lit up the world, eliminating the need for auxiliary lighting, for my uses anyway. I'm hoping a direct connection to the B+ on the JKRU will give me the same gains but regardless, there is no way I would install a 100/80 without heavier wiring harness. The stock wiring is just way to thin. I know some say the PWM will limit power but still, I would be uncomfortable. So, to sum it all up, if you want a good drop-in upgrade to stock lighting but don't want to break your wallet on a $600 set of LED's, these are worth ever penny. No regrets.

It isn't everyday that something so simple as a set of headlights can bring me sheer joy. These Hellas did just that! I've owned my 2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport (XJ) for about three years now and for some reason or another just drove it daily with the standard halogen headlights that came with it. I rarely contemplated looking for something brighter or better and to be honest with you, I didn't even know this HB2/HB4 conversion kit even existed. If you are a Cherokee XJ owner, you know that the headlights are barely bright enough and I frequently would flick on my brights while driving to work so I could safely see. A fresh paved road, during any kind of precipitation, rain/snow would usually result in me using the high beams. Anyway, I thought I would give these a shot. I wanted to buy a brand I recognized and wanted Amazon's ease of return just in case I wasn't happy, so I went with these Hellas. I'm going to explain what I did for my XJ install in a minute, but to sum up my experience now that I have had the opportunity to test them out in the pitch black, I'm happy to report that they are absolutely fantastic. They remind me of the H4's in my Kia Spectra. They fill the road up with light and have some pretty distinct, strong beams that you will notice that light up the center. Another big difference that I noticed was that road signs and the reflectors people put on their road sides to mark their driveway (anyone who lives in a small town/rural area or has ever ventured out into the country knows what I am talking about) are lit up way brighter than they were before. I was even thinking about changing out my wiring harness for the headlights, another $125 investment but for now I am going to hold off as I am completely satisfied with this conversion set. Yeah, $80 stings the wallet a bit, especially for Cherokee drivers that tend to be frugal and drive their XJ because they are dirt cheap to maintain, always start and are very easy to fix, but the safety factor should not have a dollar sign put on it. They work great and you can replace the bulb itself (a standard Hella HB2/H4 type) for around $8 each here on Amazon. I was paying at least $14 at my local Walmart for each lamp (Sylvania or Wagner Halogen) when they would burn out, which has only happened once but when you go to buy a replacement, there really isn't much in terms of on the self selection. Here is how I changed my old lamps for the HELLAs on my 2001 Jeep Cheorkee... 1. In your tool box, I would recommend one of those multi-bit screw drivers with an extension bar to make it easy to reach the screws on the unit as they are set back just a bit. 2. Remove the two black screws from both the left and right side molding that surrounds the headlight and front amber lamp. Pop out the molding, it is held in place by two tabs on the bottom. 3. Shoot each screw (there are 4 of them which keep the aluminum trim piece around the front of the headlight) with some WD40, silicone lubricant or something that you will actually be able to remove the screws out of the aluminum trim that surround the headlight. My screws were slightly rusted and took a lot of force to get to unscrew. DO NOT USE A TORX SCREWDRIVER TO REMOVE THE TORX SCREWS ON THE TOP AND SIDE OF THE HEADLIGHT MOUNT. If i am correct, those two torx screws are what keep your headlights pointed in the correct direction when you re-mount the headlights. I did notice on the drivers side, the bottom left screw (in the aluminum trim) had some wiring that was running in front of it blocking the screw itself but all I had to do was push it slightly to the left and I could reach the screw. 4. Remove the aluminum trim that surrounds the front of the headlights. The lamps should basically fall out but will be held in place with the plug on the back of the bulb. Mine were an absolute pain to remove. I have a gray/black headlight plug and I couldn't tell if I was supposed to un-click something or squeeze the sides but after about 5 minutes of wiggling the plug back and forth, mine came off and the three prongs on the back of my headlight were freed from the plug. 5. My Hellas came with a rubber cap over the back of the headlight out of the box, but you can remove that cap and it will expose the three prongs that will plug into the wiring harness on each side of your jeep and they should plug right in. Also, if you take a look at the back of the Hella headlight you can see the wire support that keeps the headlight bulb itself inserted into the lamp. Aside from having to remove the entire lamp from the Cherokee, the bulbs should be a piece of cake to remove. I am going to order a second set of bulbs to keep in my vehicle just in case I need to do a bulb change. I don't know what kind of life I can expect from these new bulbs but I want to be ready should one burn out. 6. To finish instillation, screw the 4 screws back into the aluminum trim that keeps the headlight in its mount. 7. Put the two tabs from each molding piece back into the holes and screw the two screws in on each side of the molding and you are done. I would recommend that whatever screwdriver or tip you used to loosen the screws from the aluminum that you toss it into the back of your jeep and just remember it is there. It took me at least 6 different phillips heads before I found one that would grip the screw tight enough for me to turn the screw without the risk of wearing off the grooves the screwdriver head goes into. Keeping this tool in my Jeep itself will make headlight changes that much easier in the future. 8. Take your Jeep out someplace really dark and enjoy your new lights. Like I said, I really noticed a big difference with the low beams and the high beams definitely projected down the highway longer than with stock halogens. I am very happy with this purchase.

Very good on low beam. High beam leaves a bit to be desired. Can see much better than stock lights. Installation is very easy, these are a drop in replacement for 6054 sealed beams. No cutting or splicing involved. I have these in a work van as well as my car. The bulbs have lasted for two years, and that is with DRLs! I came back to these because one was taken out by a rock and I wanted another one to replace it with. Very much worth it and much better than the OE sealed beams. You can purchase them individially. The bulb type is H4, the ones that come with the housings are bright and very long-lived. No one has flashed me with these yet. There is a nice wide beam of light off to the sides now, I can see the side of the road much better than I could previously. Also good in rain and fog.

Over time I’ve noticed that the headlights on our Jeep Cherokee were getting pretty dim; this is apparently a common problem. The original equipment was sealed beam technology and though the headlights weren’t the original ones, they had been replaced with the same type and so long ago that I can’t remember when. Better technology is now available and some research indicated that the lights can be replaced with fixtures that use halogen H4 bulbs. I chose the DOT approved Hella fixtures and lamps. My research also indicated that our tired old Jeep’s wiring was not up to the higher current these lamps would draw so a “Dual High Low Beam Headlight Relay Wiring Harness H4/9003 With High Heat Ceramic Plugs” by Octane Lighting was also ordered and installed before installing the new headlights - a separate review has already been submitted. It was also necessary to replace the switch on the dash. The first package arrived with the wiring harness and headlight - singular. I goofed and ordered a lamp instead of a pair of lamps; my mistake. The new wiring was installed while waiting for the second lamp to arrive. The headlamps came packaged in cardboard cartons, and were held safely in place by two formed cardboard brackets. The glass is clear with crisp edges and the required DOT and three small posts molded in. The base appears to be cast aluminum with the reflector surface brightly polished. The H4 lamps were already installed and are held in place with the standard twin spring wires and tabs. A heavy rubber grommet fits over the lamp electrical posts. At first it seemed that these fixtures were a bit deeper than the originals, but comparing the old and the new side by side I find that they are the same dimensionally. I was also a little concerned that they weren’t too well sealed since all that holds the grommet down is the friction over the terminals, but during installation I noted that the grommet contacts the adjusting pan and is squeezed tight when the mounting screws are installed. Installation was easy; they went right in, fit fine, but did require a bit of adjusting to get the beams lined up as before. The new wiring and headlights are a great improvement. The lights are bright white and the pattern is clear and sharp. As a comparison, the fog lamps were replaced earlier in the year and were a lot brighter and produced much more light than the old headlights. After the upgrades the fogs are now completely drowned out by the headlights and simply fill in the area below the beams as they did when the vehicle was new. The high beams are dazzling - these are DOT approved parts, not off-road high wattage lights, and are aimed per the manual. Overall this upgrade is a success and I’m pleased with the crisp pattern and white light they produce.

The EAE pair were a lot nicer than the DOT equivalent single lamps offered in the same listing. Unfortunately the EAE/European ones were for off road only in the USA, which I thought would lead to inspection issues in the future. Otherwise the light pattern was good and the lenses glued on straight. The DOT singles have terrible glass pour studs on the front and air vents which led to water getting in them. Both the DOT and EAE lenses are rather flat compared to incandescent lenses.