Hoya R72 Screw-in Infrared Lens Filter 46mm - IR Pass Filter for Camera Lens Effects, Range from 760nm and 860nm Light Transmission for Enhancing Creative Effects - Compatible with Mirrorless Cameras

This filter blocks nearly all visible light. Consequently, it looks opaque and black to the naked eye, though if you hold it up to a strong light source, you will be able to see a dull, deep red image through it. The R72 is one of the most common filters used in infrared (IR) photography. If you get really serious about shooting in IR, you may want to look into having your camera modified to remove its built-in IR-blocking filter, but even with that filter in place, some cameras can be used for IR photography, given a suitably long exposure. (Incidentally, what we are talking about here is "near-infrared" light, which, although invisible to our eyes, behaves very much like normal light in the way it reflects off objects. This is not the same as seeing heat as light, which involves a deeper portion of the IR spectrum.) I have used this filter with an unmodified Canon EOS 5D Mark II digital SLR camera and a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 lens (the original version from the 1980s, not the all-plastic one made now, which may or may not take the same size filters). The camera's auto-focus capability works perfectly with the filter in place. In direct sunlight, I have found that with the camera on a tripod, an exposure of about 15 seconds at f/5.6, ISO 400 produces a good image. After that, what to do is a matter of creative judgment; the picture obviously won't be in natural colors (that's the whole point of shooting in IR), so you can adjust white balance however you like. I often exchange the red and blue channels, as well. Sometimes I reduce the end result to grayscale, sometimes not. Now, one may ask at this point, if we are photographing infrared light, what is all this talk of red and blue and white? The answer is that the camera's sensor, though designed primarily to pick up visible light, is also somewhat sensitive to IR. However, the camera cannot distinguish between IR and visible light. The IR that it senses, it records (incorrectly) as shades of visible light (mostly red). This is what we see in digital IR photography. We are seeing, in colors we can see, an image made from light that we cannot see directly. IR photography is a lot of fun and at times it provides a strange sense of discovery. It is strange and sometimes thrilling to see our familiar world in such an unfamiliar way. The Hoya R72 filter is a good choice for IR work.

If you're wanting to try IR and not mod a camera, this is the way. Even on fairly older cameras, it will work pretty well as long as you have access to high ISO and are ok with grain/noise from it. You will do best with faster lenses and wide field of view so you don't need to stop down f-stop and reduce light, you need a lot of light to shoot in IR. So if you pick up a filter, set your ISO to max or near max and try low f-stop like F4 or so, wider angle lens, and do not shoot directly into the sun, look for things that reflect sun and you'll see the effect of IR reflecting off things and showing up as bright white. The sky will darken, tree's go white, etc. 720nm+ longer IR will show this. I'm shooting this on my favorite carry camera, an older Fuji X100S. I have to shoot around F4, ISO 6400 to be able to hand hold shoot things without too slow of a shutter speed. No hot spot or issues with the lens, 23mm so naturally wide angle field of view. Photos attached to show example.

a great IR filter. not like the other cheap fake filter I purchased before. I have both Canon 400D that doesn't had Hot Mirror and Canon 7D that had a Hot Mirror to reflect IR light, I'll post a comparison later. here's the setup I did to take the shot, but before that this is what you must carry with you. 1- DSLR Camera 2- Lens that support 77mm filter size. (consider that you may need Lens Hood for best quality) 3- IR Filter 4- Tripod 5- Wire or Wireless remote taking the shot: 1- take over exposed shot for the grass with your IR filter. (the healthy grass and faced to the direct sun are recommended)* 2- use the shot to make custom WB after that remove the IR Filter.* 3- attach your Camera to your Tripod. 4- setup the scene for the way you like and make sure you focus.** 5- Turn off the AF. 6- attach your IR filter and take a test shot with low Aperture like from F11 to 22 to see if there a Hot Spot in the middle or not, if yes it's better stick with aperture of F4 or higher.*** 7- take your shots. Note 1: I'm using a costume WB is for reference because it'll be so hard to see image washed with red, and with this way it'll be more accurate to see how shot gonna be. Note 2: from my side my cameras able to Auto Focus while the filter is attached but it's still better to remove the IR filter for each scene and attach it again. Note 3: if there's Hot Spot in the middle of the photo I have a bad news for you, you may need to replace your lens, but there's small solution is to use high Aperture (I usually using from F2.8 to F4, if you considering to buy new lens search for recommended lenses for IR photography. Post Processing. before you start process the shots first you need to download Adobe DNG Profile Editor, you can find it easily by Google, you may need to do it once for each camera. First.. Camera Calibration. (Only Once) 1- Open any good IR shot with Adobe Camera RAW. 2- don't do anything with the image other than putting the temperature to 2000. 3- click save button and save the shot as DNG format and close Adobe Camera RAW. 4- Open the Adobe DNG Profile Editor in same shot folder or desktop. 5- click File>>> Open DNG Image... then open your DNG file we saved before 6- click the Color Matrices tap. 7- in White Balance Calibration... but the Temperature to 2000. 6- click File>>>Export YOUR CAMERA NAME Profile. 7- save the profile to C:\Users\USER\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles. Second.. Post Processing. 1- open any IR shot in Adobe Camera RAW. 2- in the right tools, go to the Camera icon or Camera Calibration. 3- from Camera Profile chose the profile we created before. 4- go to the first tab and now you can choose any number from Temperature or by White Balance tool by hitting I button from keyboard and choose any pixel from image that suitable to your taste. 5- Open the shot by holding Shift then click Open Object for we can modify the image in case when we need. 6- in Photoshop choose Channel Mixer... from the right tools. 7- in Red change the Value to 0 in Red and 100 in Blue. 8- in Blue change the Value to 0 in Blue and 100 in Red. 9- choose Hue/Saturation... 10- change from Master to Cyans. 11- change Saturation to -100 12- change the lightness to 100 13- work with your photo as much as you like. what give is the basics, for more, google Infrared Photography tutorials and you'll find great learning stuff. hope I was helpful.

Allt var bra.

Met my expectations. The best way to get infrared photos in a digital camera

As expected. Top class product.

Cela faisait un moment que je voulais me lancer dans l'infrarouge. J'ai donc commandé ce filtre en 77mm pour l'adapter à tous mes objectifs avec des adaptateurs. J'ai un Nikon D5200 non modifié (donc avec son filtre anti-IR toujours présent). Malgré tout, il n'y a aucun problème pour l'IR avec ce boitier. J'ai pu faire une photo potable en plein soleil avec 1 seconde de pause (au-delà ça cramait). Je pense même que j'aurais pu régler avec un temps d'exposition plus court. Dans tous les cas, un temps d'exposition assez long et donc un trépied sont indispensables. L'image est visible avec le liveview. Donc pas besoin de pré-cadrer et mettre le filtre ensuite. Il est tout a fait possible de cadrer une fois le filtre positionner. La photo qui en ressort est bien rouge. Mais avec un petit traitement sur Lightroom et GIMP, mes premiers essais sont prometteurs. La retouche est essentielle pour ce type de photo et il y a du boulot important à chaque fois de ce côté là ! A savoir aussi qu'il y a une perte de piqué non négligeable et que la mise au point n'est pas placée au même endroit qu'avec la lumière visible (il faudra d'ailleurs la faire obligatoirement en manuel). Bref, tout à apprentissage à revoir. C'est ça aussi qui rend la chose excitante ! Autre chose aussi à savoir avant de se lancer (chose que je ne savais pas) : tous les objectifs ne sont pas compatibles avec l'infrarouge. En effet, ces derniers sont optimisés pour la lumière visible. Or, cela peut créer des phénomènes de "hot spot" plus ou moins prononcés en fonction de l'objectif et de l'ouverture utilisée. Cela n'a rien à voir avec la qualité du filtre (ici excellente) ou le boitier, mais bien des objectifs utilisés ! Il existe des listes d'objectifs compatibles, moyens ou médiocre pour l'IR sur Internet. Personnellement j'ai fais mes premiers essais avec mon Tokina 11-16mm (il est considéré comme médiocre pour l'IR) et déjà à F/2.8 j'ai un hot spot diffus au centre. Il peut être partiellement corrigé en dé-saturant les couleurs magenta et jaune en fin de traitement avec lightroom, mais ça reste encore imparfait. Je vais faire des tests avec mon Nikkor 18-105mm et mon Tamron 1:1 90mm Macro VC. Je croise les doigts pour qu'au moins l'un d'eux sorte des photos acceptables à mes yeux. Bref, je recommande pour tous ceux qui aiment les photos infrarouge et qui sauront s'armer de patience pour tout ré-apprendre. :D PS : Le filtre est livré dans un étui en plastique transparent. Très pratique donc.

Good quality, well made. Solid. A little expensive.