Sunroof Track Assembly Repair Kit for Ford F150 F250 F350 F450 Expedition Lincoln Navigator Mark LT 2000-2016 | Best Sun Roof Replacement Track Parts for F-150 Truck | Premium Car Accessories

This kit just saved me more than 1200 dollars. I got three quotes from Ford, An auto glass shop and an Auto Body Shop. All were over 1600 dollars to repair the sunroof. I watched the youtube video a few times start to finish and took notes and time stamps of the steps I knew I would want to look at again as I did them. I had a friend help and it took less than 4 hours. No extra pieces left over and nothing broken. Make sure you have all the tools the big torx bit for removing the seat belts was 4 dollars at the auto part store. We had a rivet gun and hex wrenches. The fit was a bit tight but once in and cycled a few times it worked fine. Do not hesitate to buy this if you have slightly above average skills. If you are easily frustrated pay the pros and note they Will Not use this kit they will require an OEM part that is about 1000 dollars.

Was a little skeptical from all the problems people were having. Went with this seller because they higher numbers.The job is not difficult, just time consuming as so much disassembly has to be done. I had no issues with extra tabs or anything, but things change between years. The kit worked like a charm for me. Also, if it has been a while, if at all, that the glass seal has been replaced, now might be a good time to replace it. Installing the new glass seal was the hardest part about this job.Pull the fuse for the interior lights. On my truck this fuse is also for the power windows and sunroof, so if you want the windows down, now is the time to lower them.Move the front seats forward to help remove the front seat belt trim cover, pull the seat belt way out, and lay them cross ways behind the front seats. Some videos show leaving the headliner in. Do yourself a favor and take it out. Pull the front head rests out, lay the seat backs back as far as they will go, and you can rotate and remove the head liner through the front passenger door, sunroof opening first.When you have the frame laid out on your working surface, take a picture of how stuff is laid out.Drill the rivets on the cable end, NOT the air deflector end. There is a butyl sealer between the end caps and the track. Slow easy pressure and the end cap will come out. DO NOT SCRAPE THAT SEALER OFF !!!!!! It's going to seal the pieces back together later. On my 2002 F1500 Lariat, the sliding cover will not come out the cable end of the track, so be careful when cleaning. If you want to remove it, you need to remove the air deflector cap. (remove the 2 little screw holding the air deflector limit straps, fold the deflector back onto the track, and slide it from under the retainer. Drill the 3 rivets like the other end, and carefully remove the cap. You will need more 3/16 aluminum rivets, The cover can now be removed out that end. Note that when you reinstall the end cap, you will need to trim the excess off the rivets so the air deflect and spring will clear them and lay down all the way. I actually have to use a small file for final fitment, but was no biggie.)The instructions say to use carb cleaner, but if the tracks have dried up moly grease like mine did, soak it down with WD40 first to dilute the old stuff, do a light scrub with a old tooth brush to loosen it up, and a quick rinse with cleaner that is safe for plastics. You need to clean the aluminum tracks end to end. Do the cleaning outside or have cardboard under it. This is a messy job. Most of the grease supplied is going to be used in the tracks. Coat everything liberally. This includes the air deflector ramp and the top of the track. Leave a small amount to coat the new rail pieces. You should also apply some to the cable ends upon installing them. You will need a rivet gun that can handle 3/16 rivets (fyi 1/4in rivets are to short). The track to end cap sealer appears to be a liquid butyl sealer they use in the factory. I couldn't find any, so I just cleaned all the aluminum chips out with a pick, heated it a little with a heat gun on low (be careful not to get the plastic to hot or the rivets will pull through) just enough to soften the sealer, then re-assemble. The reason this sealer is used is it does not dry at all. It stays soft and flexible. Rtv and silicone will be as flexible as this stuff is.Other things you NEED to know. Don't install the head liner until you test run the sunroof first, and don't run it with power until the glass is in. When you reinstall the glass used the old marks from the washers for locating it temporarily. Install the frame completely, and make sure all the bolts are tight. Install the glass, and plug the motor up. Temporarily install roof control button assembly and the fuse if your windows stopped working when it was removed. Turn the key on and try the roof. Chances are it just wiggled at best. Needs to be re-initiated. on mine, press and hold the close/tilt button. Eventually it will do a little jig. Let off the button at that point. It should be set to go. hit the auto button and see what it does. If everything is good, run it though a few complete cycles 3 or 4 times.Now you need to adjust the glass. Close the sunroof. Loosen the glass retaining screw just enough to move the glass. Factory setting are for the front of the glass seal to be 0.000-.039in blow the roof, and the back 0.000-.039 above the roof. I set mine at just under the roof on the front, and just over the roof on the back. Prob in the .015-.02 range. The reason for this is to keep rain and wind from getting forced past the seal when driving.Now pull the fuse again and reassemble your ride. Just a side note. I would get some spray silicone grease (not lubricant, grease) of even just some silicone grease, and give it a coat every year to keep things from binding up.

8 months in with normal sunroof operation. Still working like a champ.

The Good: It fits perfectly and works as intended.The Bad: Its the same cheep plastic we've all come to know and expect from the industry. Just like the original, it will eventually become brittle, weaken and then need to be replaced.

Ordered this track replacement back in November. I waited until Febuary to replace it. Found miss marked parts, a guide hole had not been drilled out, and after all that and 2 days of work, found that the track would not open my sunroof. Never buy these cheap replacements. Just have to buy it again from a real parts company, and start all over

Very good kit. I only need a small part but works fine for the

I just completed this replacement yesterday on a 2014 Ford Expedition Limited. Dealer had quoted me around $1200 for the part and another $1200 for labor, so $2400 total. This did take me about 8 hours, but I wasn't pushing hard. Certainly a time consuming process though, but ended up saving ~$2500.00 after taxes. The instrucutions provided in the reviews here along with a couple youtube videos guided me through the process. I did end up dropping the entire liner, and removed the sunroof mechanism through the back of the vehicle. One video talked about not needing to do that on the Expedition and Navigators, but it wasn't much more effort to do that, and gave me a lot more space to work on the sunroof on a shop table. One thing to note is not to worry about wear exactly the sunroof sits before re-calibration, on mine it was a touch too low in the closed position which I had moved it too manually, and I was worried something was wrong. Pulled the sunroof all the way back, held for recalibration and it went forward to the the closed position and went up just a bit, and I was a touch high high in closed position, but that allowed me to adjust the height of the window. New parts went in a little hard to move at first, needed to make a couple slight adjustments with a dremel, and I found that greasing everything and manually working everything about 10 times got things working smooth. Just seemed there was a bit too much drag/friction versus OEM parts.** On a side note, I also had to fix the power running boards on the Expedition ** - dealer quoted $2200 per side, so ust under $5000.00 after taxes, they didn't even check the connections. I happen to have a car lift which I usually use more for storage of a hot rod, so I put this SUV up on that... connctors were disconnected and filthy full of sand and road grime... cleaned out with compressed air, WD40, and wiped clean. Then hit with contact cleaner and dialectric grease.. got motors to work but they were hurting after sitting for years, ordered two new motors with brackets online, got the rear brackets moving with some elbow grease... and shazam.... fixed for $280.00. Saved another $4700.00. What these dealers are wanting for fixing some things on these trucks is highway robbery these days!