GM Genuine Parts 214-1091 (15759044) Vapor Canister Vent Valve

Came quickly, was kind of a pain in the butt to get to and install, but that's Chevy's fault not the manufacturer lol...It looked exactly like the factory original and in my case mounted up perfectly without needing any modifications or zip ties.... and most importantly it fixed my problem. My CEL is off and my gas tank is no longer over pressuring and spitting gas back at me while fueling, plus my mpg got a lil better. This part is the OEM brand for half the price that the locals parts places wanted and it got the job done, so cant beat that imo... I've put about 1000 miles or more on it and so far so good but I'll update if it fails prematurely.

Fit well my Yukon Denali 2002 6.0lt

Got rid of my check engine light issue. A little tough to replace on a Chevy Silverado but not the fault of the product. No issues with it since replacement.

took care of my engine light works great been installed over a month

Worked as advertised, took driving around for a while before light turned off code fuel vapor leak.

Fit perfectly, problem solved

This part repaired my 2004 GMC Yukon XL that I was having two error codes on. The two error codes were P0440 and P0446, both related to the venting from the fuel tank. I think it's important to note that according to Amazon, this part does not fit my vehicle (but it does). Apparently there is an upgraded part that you can also get, but I figured if the original part lasted 120,000 miles then I would go with another one of these. For me, this part was located near the fuel tank behind the drivers side rear wheel. Just get this part, get under the vehicle and look for a similar part. It's pretty self explanatory from there. You disconnect an electrical connector (which was actually easy on mine), and then you have to disconnect the vent line from the fuel tank. THAT was the hard part - I probably spent a good 30 minutes trying to get this dang hose disconnected. I ended up using two pair of pliers and just forcing it apart. I then installed this new part just as the old one came off. After replacing this part you can reset the check engine light if you have a scanner, or just wait for it to turn off on its own after a few driving cycles. It is very simple to replace - probably took me about 45 minutes in total. A few tips: *Wear safety glasses. There's a lot of junk under your vehicle that would like to fall into your eyes *Wear gloves (not necessary, but I always find it easier to tug a little harder on things if I feel like my hands are protected *In case your weary of doing anything related to the gas tank, this tip is for you - don't worry about it. You're not dealing with an actual fuel line. It's just a vent line. No fuel will come out. *If I can do this, so can you. It took me probably way longer than it should have, but that dang fuel vent line was hard to get off of the original part (it went on the new part very easily though) *I ended up lifting the rear wheels of my Yukon XL by about 3 inches which made getting under the rear wheels way more convenient. I could have done it without lifting it, but it was easier to work down there with it lifted. DO NOT USE YOUR JACK to lift the vehicle. I drove up on a few of the yellow parking pads that I have for my camper, but you can also use 2x6's or 2x8's, wheel ramps, or jack stands. Or you can do it without lifting it at all, but again, it makes it easier to work down there if it is lifted up a few inches. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll do my best to answer them!

Before purchasing this item slide under your vehicle to make sure you are getting the right one, there are 2 different ones. There is this one and there is the round one: ACDelco 214-2149 Professional Vapor Canister Purge Solenoid After loads of research on why my 2002 gmc yukon 1500 was throwing the P-0046 code i decided to give this a try. I found the "relocation kit" that is about a hundred bucks and is a pain to install, but if the first "original" purge valve lasted 100,000 miles well if i still have the truck in another hundred thousand, i will be happy to drop another 12.61 with free prime shipping (got it from the warehouse as used but it was brand new) and replace it again. Here is the skinny on the dreaded p-0046 code on gm trucks that the dealer wants to charge you hundreds to fix. The location of this purge valve is under the truck, pickups, suburbans, yukons, ect in the back right in front of the gas tank. It is held in with a bracket and you can just pop it off of the bracket. Once off of there you unplug the wiring harness, and then the hardest part is getting the hose off, take you time and dont damage the special connector. I just pulled pushed wiggled twisted mine and it came off. Slide the new one on the bracket first and then plug it in, hose and wires. 15 minutes tops with no tools except a screwdriver and a jack. Just drive the car and the computer will reset itself if this was the problem, or you can reset the code if you have a scanner, or you can pull the negative off the battery for about 15 minutes to reset the code. If the check engine light(some models is the "service engine soon" light) does not go off, or comes back on, then there are 2 other possibilities. 1. gas cap: ACDelco GT231 Fuel Tank Cap 2. The purge valve on the intake manifold: ACDelco 214-646 Vapor Canister Purge Valve The intake manifold purge valve is easier to install and the one by the gas tank. Take the cover off the top of the engine. Locate the purge valve, it is on the front left part of the engine right in front. Remove it, install the new one and you are done. If you want to make sure that you get it the first time then get all 3, gas cap and both purge valves. IT IS VERY RARE THAT THE CANISTER GOES BAD...DO NOT LET ANYONE SELL YOU A CANISTER UNTIL YOU HAVE TRIED THESE THREE THINGS. CANISTERS RUN ABOUT 500 INSTALLED AND ARE A PAIN TO DO. If you have questions feel free to send me an email